Home Videos Games Podcastle

Miniatures painting - Showing off!


#81

Thanks for getting this going again. :slight_smile:
I like the way those two bases kind of ‘run over’ on to the edges of the base.

Here’s a few more of models I’ve finished (or almost finished) since last time…


#82

Another Legion of Everblight dragon thingy. Quite happy with the yellow to orange airbrushing on the wings, though some of the grey is untidy now that i look back. Impatience getting the better of me!


#84

Not a great painter, never have been, but these are my first miniatures for 25 years…

Two attempts at remembering how to paint “ghosts” - Ok, I ended up with a living statue and a weird elf.

20180824155209734~2

Can I still do shades of green… yes, yes I can.

What about wood? Seems wood is OK.


#85

Ooh nice barrel. What’s it from?


#86

Now that’s a good question. Been in the loft since we moved, and we bought it way before then. Absoluetly no idea in other words! That figure must be… um… 25-35 years old?


#87

Humanoids aren’t something I’ve done much of, but I think I’m getting pretty okay at it. Except faces, faces are impossible


#88

Your Barbarian looks great! So rugged…

It’s eyes I struggle with - I always end up ruining the eyes.


#89

Thanks! The barbarian is for one of my PCs in a game I’m running. The dwarf is an NPC so I didn’t spend quite as much time on him.


#90

Quick question for all the paibters here; what would you recommend as a good starting kit? Or where should I look for info?
Thinking about getting my son (9) a small kit for Christmas, as he has shown an interest in painting minis.
Thanks.


#91

I work at a game store, and I give everyone the same basic advice:

  1. Buy a black primer. As a beginner, you want Citadel. It’s more expensive, but it’s closer to fool-proof. When you have more experience under your belt, you can start using “riskier” primers like Army Painter or even generic primer from a hardware store. Black primer with thin coats forgives a lot of sins.
  2. Put the model on a box you don’t care about. Hold it about 30cm away from the can. Point the can to the left of the model, start spraying (not aiming at the model), sweep the stream of primer over the model from left to right, and release the nozzle (also not aiming at the model). Rotate, and repeat until you’ve done all sides of the model. Let it dry, and then do one quick blast (as above) to make sure you get the underside.
  3. Buy 3 or 4 colours for your models. Try to pick stuff that you think looks good together (think about superhero colours… red, blue, and yellow, or yellow, gray, and black, or gold, red, and blue or whatever). Usually, 2 or 3 regular colours plus one metallic and a skin tone.
  4. Paint the model, carefully making each “section” a single colour. Don’t let two different materials that touch be the same colour (ie: brown boots and brown pants is a no-no, unless you are using very different browns). I recommend watering your paints down to about the same consistency of heavy milk so that it doesn’t go on too thick and obscure detail.
  5. After you have carefully painted the entire model, paint on a thin coat of “Strong Quick Shade” (Army Painter) or “Brown wash” (Citadel’s brand is called “Agrax Earthshade”, I believe).
  6. Done!

A good quality model will take about an hour to paint when you’re starting out, plus drying time between coats. Don’t rush, but don’t worry if it takes a lot longer or less time!


#92

Right now Games Workshop have just released a subscription style magazine, Warhammer 40,000: Conquest.

As with all these type of things, the first issue is super cheap compared to the regular price to get you hooked. Putting that to one side, £1.99 gets you three paints, a brush and 3 minis - that’s a real steal for someone starting out in model painting


#93

Whilst black spray is great in loads of situations, I really would recommend just a cheap white primer from somewhere like Wilko’s (UK). Costs a few pounds and reds and yellows will go on MUCH easier. If you’re going to wash/ink the models anyway then you’ll get any pale crevaces with that later.
I can also recommend army painters range of paints and washes. Cheap and effective. Their Matt varnish spray is not so cheap, but excellent for finished minis.


#94

Thanks for all the feedback!!!

@Marx09 - I think maybe I’ll look into grabbing a can of the suggested primer, and a couple of paints. maybe we can start a few small jobs before Christmas, and if he’s into it, than I know I can justify grabbing a larger selection.

@Scribbs - I’m not sure if that’s available in Canada, but I’ll try and take a look. It would be nice to start with a few minis that don’t actually belong to any of our games. Otherwise, I’ll just grab a small pack of generic ones.

@mintochris - I will definitely need some white primer at some point, because we may have some storm troopers to paint after the holidays! :smiley:

Thanks again for all of the info. Definitely some things to look into.


#95

Agree with the white primer. The primer color should really depend on the color the finished product should have. I typically use white, but I have used gray and black when appropriate (gray for the Probe Droids and AT-ST in Imperial Assault, black for Vader and Wookies, etc.). I find brighter colors show better on the white, though, than on a darker primer base, and it’s not hard to throw a black coat over white primer if necessary.

While other paints are higher quality, some basic acrylic paints from craft stores do work and are much cheaper. You just need to water them down to thin them out a bit when using them. I do recommend looking into at least one higher quality brush for detail work though, and read up on how to clean your brushes and care for them appropriately. Nothing more annoying than bristles that stop forming a point when you are trying to do detail work. Otherwise, you’ll just need a few small tipped brushes and one larger one for drybrushing.

Recommend Sorastro’s painting guides on YouTube for Imperial Assault minis. His technique is great, and though he uses a ton of different paints, you can still get really good results by mixing some basic colors on your own.


#96

Then £8 for each of 80 issues! Yours for £642!


#97

Sorastro is good!
On the subject of brushes: cheap is fine, but be aware that synthetic bristles will curl/hook at the tip after a bit no matter how well you care for them. Not always a problem, and sometimes makes things easier, but real hair on something like the white handled army painter range (or anything ‘sable’) will keeps its point. Can sometimes only cost a couple of quid more.


#98

Um, actually the second issue is £6. A bargain at £640! WITH CHANGE!


#99

They do seem to give you at least 3 minis with each of the first four issues, and I’m sure some people will buy ten copies of issue one to get 30 space marines…


#100

I’m totally not advocating the whole subscription thing, just the very first 1.25% - the first issue is very, very good value.


#101

apocryphal tale.

Ok, not really, but the first time I ever went to a games Worksop store, they gave me a free paint starter kit. (Well my mum). I know of at least one other 8 year old this happened to, is this a standard gateway drug anyone else has experienced?